Bangkok, Thailand. The City of Angels
For most visitors, the first stop in Thailand is Bangkok, Thailand’s administrative, economic and cultural center. Bangkok is a city of contrasts, huge modern buildings, and the fast-paced, crowded streets blend with a rich history and the peaceful surroundings of many temples (called a Wat) and the Grand Palace.
Thailand is known as the Land of Smiles, due to the warm and welcoming locals. As the core culture of Thailand is Buddhism, it isn’t surprising that the locals are so friendly. Many Thais speak and understand English, more so in Bangkok and other major tourist areas. While Thailand is one of the safest countries for travelers in Southeast Asia, you still need to be aware of your surroundings at all times. Bangkok is a huge city of over 10 million people. The streets are congested, the sidewalks are busy and there are lots of people and activity. Be prepared, Bangkok can be intense. But, getting out and exploring Bangkok is very rewarding.
The Wats, with their beautiful architecture, are filled with visitors and worshippers all day. While the different Wats are tourist attractions, they are also places of worship and are very strict on clothing, so visitors are expected to wear respectful and appropriate attire. If you are dressed too casually, sarongs can usually be purchased at the visitor entrance. All around Bangkok street food sizzles in the afternoon and evening and that wonderful aroma lingers in the air. The nightlife, from sleazy areas to fancy rooftop bars is excellent. Enjoy the views while traveling up and down the Chao Phraya River. Go shopping at the night markets, weekend markets, floating markets, and mega malls. Plus, many small stores along the crowded sidewalks make Bangkok a shopper's and souvenir-hunters dream.
Despite the traffic congestion, Bangkok isn’t a difficult city to navigate. All signs are in Thai, but many are also in English, which is very helpful, especially at the airport and the BTS Skytrain. Visitors travel throughout Bangkok on the Skytrain, the MRT Metro, the Chao Phraya river buses, and of course the ubiquitous tuk-tuks. (a small and cheap form of personal transportation, an auto-rickshaw).
An alternative to getting around the streets of Bangkok is to get around on the bustling waterways of Bangkok. The Chao Phraya is the most important waterway for the people of Central Thailand and is the lifeblood of Bangkok. It’s used for commerce and transportation. Large barges go up and down the river, as do small boats shipping rice, grains, teak wood, and many other products. In the canals branching off the river, there are floating markets selling produce, fruits, flowers, and many other items. The river is also used for tourism, as a boat ride on the river and its many canals is a very popular tourist activity. River buses, tourist boats, private ferries and more all operate on the river, transporting thousands of people daily around Bangkok. The edges of the river and its canals have boat docks, ferry stops, high-rise hotels and office buildings, beautiful ancient Wats, old warehouses, local markets selling produce, flowers, and souvenirs, homes built on stilts and so much more. Residents of Bangkok have made the banks of the Chao Phraya their home for hundreds of years and depend on the river for their source of income.
Our first time in Bangkok, we only spent an afternoon there and headed out to see more of Thailand as fast as possible. After spending that short afternoon in Bangkok, we realized we made a mistake and wished we had more time there. On our second visit to Bangkok, we spent a couple of days exploring this amazing city and seeing the sights that it had to offer.
How to Get to Bangkok
Thailand has six international airports, but the Bangkok airport receives the most international visitors. The other international airports mostly welcome visitors from other Asian cities. Visitors can also arrive in Bangkok by train if coming from other places in Southeast Asia. Once in Bangkok, it's easy to take day trips from here or fly to your next destination (or even take a train).
Where to Stay in Bangkok
Locations near the Chao Phraya River are an ideal place to stay. You will be within walking distance to the different Wats or you can hop onto the river public transportation.
We’ve stayed at the Peninsula Hotel Bangkok and Sala Rattanakosin. The Peninsula is a beautiful high-rise hotel with great views of the Chao Phraya and the city of Bangkok. While it’s across the river from much of the craziness and big city activity, they have a dedicated boat that will take you back and forth across the river. Despite having this handy boat getting us back and forth across the Chao Phraya, we found it to be slightly inconvenient to occasionally wait on the Peninsula river taxi.
We highly recommend Sala Rattanakosin, a small boutique hotel with amazing service, good food, and a cozy rooftop bar with awesome views of Wat Arun and the busy Chao Phraya River. When we got dropped off down the street/alley from the hotel, I thought we were in the wrong place. Walking down the street/alley, past shops, restaurants, and warehouses while searching for the hotel, I started to wonder what kind of place we had booked for ourselves. Once we reached the hotel and stepped into the comfortable lobby, we felt much better about our decision. The location is awesome! It’s a two-minute walk to Wat Pho, a 10-minute walk to the Grand Palace, and a short walk to a ferry stop that will get you across the river to Wat Arun.
The rooftop bar at Sala Rattanakosin is arguably the best spot in Bangkok to watch the sun set behind Wat Arun. If you stay here, make sure to upgrade to a room with a view across the river that allows you to see Wat Arun. While the view of Wat Arun during the day is good, it’s a truly magical experience to be in your room at the end of a long, hot day of exploring Bangkok and gazing out the floor-to-ceiling windows of Sala Rattanakosin to see Wat Arun lit up at night.
What We Did in Bangkok
Wat Arun - With its location on the west bank of the Chao Phraya River, Wat Arun (The Temple of Dawn) and its colorfully decorated tiles, is probably the most stunning Bangkok landmark. Visitors can climb to the top of the main building, which we highly recommend. The stairs are steep, but upon reaching the top and soaking in the amazing views, you’ll be happy you put in the effort to get here.
Grand Palace - The Grand Palace complex, a group of buildings and pavilions set around open lawns, gardens, and courtyards, was established in 1782, after King Rama I ascended to the throne. The complex has royal halls, government offices, and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The palace has been the official residence of the Kings of Siam (and later Thailand) since 1782. The spectacular Grand Palace, located in the heart of Bangkok is undoubtedly the most famous landmark in Bangkok. It's one must-see sight that no visit to the city would be complete without. While there were many Chinese tourists here, we found an English-speaking guide. Our guide (again, we always recommend hiring a guide) was fantastic, and we all learned so much about the Buddhist religion and culture.
Wat Phra Kaew (the Emerald Buddha) - is now housed on the grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok, but has a complicated history. The Emerald Buddha was originally at a temple in the town of Chiang Rai (now in Northern Thailand) until 1436, when it was removed to Chiang Mai. It was kept there until Setthathirat I, king of Chiang Mai and Laos, moved the statue to his capital, Vientiane (now in Laos), in 1560. There he built a majestic temple to house it. When King Rama I (reigned over Siam [now Thailand] 1782–1809) captured the town of Vientiane, he returned the Emerald Buddha to Thailand. Rama I established Bangkok as his capital, and in 1784 the image was placed there in the Temple of the Emerald Buddha.
The Emerald Buddha is an image of the meditating Gautama Buddha seated in a meditative posture, is made of a semi-precious green stone (jasper rather than emerald or jade), clothed in gold, and marks the changing of the seasons in Thailand. The king presides over seasonal ceremonies and in a ritual held at the temple three times a year, the decoration of the statue is changed at the start of each of the three seasons. Rama I initiated this ritual for the hot season and the rainy season; Rama III introduced the ritual for the winter season. The costume change ritual is performed by the king who is the most elevated master of ceremonies for all Buddhist rites. During the ceremony, the king first climbs up to the pedestal, cleans the image by wiping away any dust with a wet cloth, and changes the gold headdress of the Emerald Buddha.
Wat Pho (Wat Phra Chetuphon) - was built in the 16th century and is the home of the 141-foot-long reclining Buddha statue, which is plated in gold leaf and inlaid with mother of pearl. King Rama I rebuilt the temple and some of his ashes are enshrined here. The temple was later expanded and extensively renovated by Rama III and is home to the largest collection of Buddha images in Thailand. This is also the home of the Wat Pho Massage School. Make sure to stop by the school and sign up for your first of many traditional Thai massages, while you are in Thailand. These intense hour-long massages (for about $10 USD) use gentle pressure and stretching techniques to relax the whole body. Thai massage is said to lower stress, boost energy and improve athletic performance.
Jim Thompson House - is a museum in central Bangkok that houses the art collection of American businessman and architect Jim Thompson, the Thai Silk King. This is a must-visit attraction while in Bangkok. Following his relocation to Bangkok and the establishment of the Thai Silk Company in 1948, Thompson also became a major collector of Southeast Asian art, which at the time, was not well known internationally. He amassed a large collection from Southeast Asia of historical Buddhist statues and traditional paintings that depicted the life of Buddha. Thompson disappeared in Malaysia in 1967 and the house came under the control of The James H. W. Thompson Foundation. Guided tours are available daily. As always, we recommend taking the guided tour. You’ll learn much more about the art collection and the mysterious disappearance of Jim Thompson on a guided tour than you would by walking around without a guide. Around 180,000 visitors go through the Jim Thompson House each year, a visit here will take 1-2 hours.
The Sky Bar - is on the 64th floor of a highrise building, with incredible views about 820 feet above the streets of Bangkok. You may know the Sky Bar from a scene in the movie Hangover 2. The Sky Bar is one of the highest rooftop bars in the world. It also appears on many ‘Best of Rooftop Bars’ lists each year. Go for magic hour, sundown, or after dark. Due to the setting sun and fading light, it’s different on each visit, with the flickering cityscape, and a backlit bar that changes color throughout the night. One thing that doesn’t change; it’s always awe-inspiring, and always a good time. Given the setting and views, it would be easy for the Sky Bar to serve overpriced regular drinks. That’s not the case here, although drinks were about $20 each, which is crazy for Thailand prices, you’re paying for the amazing view of Bangkok. Oh, and the drinks were damn good, with bartenders serving many creative takes on classic cocktails
Chatuchak weekend market - Shop until you drop!! Since 1942, this has been the largest market in Thailand, with more than 15,000 stalls and 11,500 vendors. The Chatuchak Market was born out of Prime Minister Field Marshal Phibulsongkram’s plan, in the 1940s, to establish a market in every Thai province. After several relocations, in 1982 the market finally settled at its current location south of Chatuchak Park, from which it gained its name.
The energy and craziness of the Chatuchak market is immediately apparent, with visitors haggling loudly with vendors and an assault on all five senses. Food stalls emit smells of delicious seafood and sweets and there is lots of loud music. Chatuchak is the largest market in Asia and navigating it can be confusing. With winding streets and alleys, and a chaotic layout, the best way to approach exploring this massive market is to grab a free map from one of the information kiosks.
The Chatuchak Market sells many different kinds of goods, including plants, antiques, consumer electronics, cosmetics, pets, fresh and dry food and drinks, ceramics, furniture and home accessories, clothing, and books. It’s the world's largest and most diverse weekend market, with over 200,000 visitors every weekend
Chatuchak Weekend Market is open all weekend, beginning Friday night at 6 p.m. and closing at midnight. On Saturday and Sunday, it's open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. Many of the stalls disregard these hours and stay open much later. Large groups of people shove their way through the market, one stall at a time. Despite the crowd and the chaos, the Chatuchak Weekend Market is one destination you cannot miss visiting.
Flower Markets - There are many different flower markets in Bangkok. As we walked around the city, we encountered multiple flower markets. While there are many flower markets, Pak Khlong Talad, which is thought to begin operating in the early 18th century, is the biggest wholesale and retail fresh flower market in Bangkok and is one of the best free things to do in Bangkok.
The market has all kinds of popular flowers and flora-related items, including roses, forget-me-nots, orchids, lilies, and more, all of which are amazingly cheap. While open 24 hours, Pak Klong Talad is most active after midnight. If you want to see the market in full action, though, the best time to go is early in the morning. This is when the roadside transforms into a kaleidoscope of bright, blooming colors, as vendors receive floral goods from each flower-growing area in the country. Flower sellers bring in truckloads of freshly cut flowers, while traders and retailers visit to review the flowers and buy their stock. It’s a crazy and chaotic scene, the vendors aren’t very patient when dealing with visitors. If you go during this period, it’s best to just observe and absorb the atmosphere.
Thai Cooking Class - We did a cooking class at the School at Maliwan. After meeting at the cooking school, we went to a local market where we saw lots of yummy fruits and vegetables, raw meat, bullfrogs being skinned, eels swimming, fresh shrimp, chicken and duck eggs, and lots of spices and curry. After gathering our ingredients, we went back to start cooking! We made yellow chicken curry, spring rolls, chicken with cashew nuts, and chicken fried rice. This was a bunch of fun and the kids really enjoyed it. Once we were all done cooking, we ate our lunch. It was a lot of food, but it was so good!
Thai Massage - Finding a Thai massage in Bangkok is like finding a McDonald’s in the US. The cost of a Thai massage is about the cost of two Big Mac meals. It’s incredible how cheap it is to get a great massage. We did a massage at Pai Spa, where we each had a foot scrub, foot rub, and Thai massage. The experience lasted about two and a half hours and cost $25. It was a great way to prepare for our long journey home.
China Town - Bangkok’s Chinatown is the largest Chinatown in the world and is arguably one of the best Chinatowns to visit. The China Gate sits in the middle of a large traffic island and is bustling with lights, traffic, food, street vendors, etc. Head to the famous Yaowarat Road after dark to find some of the best eats in the city, especially if you love seafood. If you don’t know where to start, just follow the crowd and once you see a bunch of Thais eating at a certain stall, get in line there because the food is probably amazing.
Chao Phraya river -As described above, we took multiple river taxi rides on the Chao Phraya, and hired a river boat captain to take us on a tour of the river and the many canals.
Where to Eat in Bangkok
There are thousands of places to eat in Bangkok. We went to a few sit-down restaurants but also enjoyed some food from street vendors. At most of the places we ate, we got two meals and a few Chang beers for around $15-$20. Meals and beers were crazy cheap. One night after doing some sightseeing and visiting China Town at night, our tuk-tuk driver took us to a popular rolled ice place for dessert. This is something you should do while in Bangkok. A few of the memorable places we ate were;
Home Cafe
Tha Tian Art Café
Queen Curry
94 coffee
The River Cafe at the Peninsula
Day Trips from Bangkok
We didn’t do any day trips that left Bangkok. There are cheap domestic flights which are a quick option to get around Thailand, but trains can be great if you've got time to spare and want a more immersive experience on your trip to Thailand. We’ve gone from Bangkok to Chang Mai twice. Once on a cheap flight and once by train. The popular train journey from Bangkok to Chang Mai by sleeper train leaves around 6 p.m. from Bangkok and travels through the Thai countryside. This overnight train saves you the cost of a night's hotel accommodation and gives you an incredible sunrise view in the morning as you roll into Chang Mai.
Note - If flying internationally from Bangkok, you may want to find an airport hotel to spend a few hours, many of the flights depart in the middle of the night. We didn’t want to mess around with getting on the SkyTrain or grabbing a cab to the airport around midnight, so after hours of sightseeing and walking the streets of Bangkok in the heat and humidity, we checked into an airport hotel in the evening. We were tired, hot and sweaty and were about to embark on a 33-hour trip back to the US. Our comfortable airport hotel was about $40 for a night, and it was well worth the expense to be able to shower and get in a short nap before heading to the airport.